Designing a Solar Heated Structure (Part One)
On December 06, 2007 in Solar Cabin
Apologies for the stagnation of the Solar Cabin construction. While I lay in waiting for materials and capital, I have been doing lots of design work. As I was running through calculations and doing research, I realized how daunting this might be for many people looking to approach this from a “Do-It-Yourself” standpoint.
And from that random though comes “Part I” of my step-by-step guide to designing a solar heated structure:
“Designing a Solar Heated Structure“
When heating a structure using a “direct gain passive solar” system (direct gain means the space is directly heated by the sun) There are many different aspects that need to be considered. Initially, it is good to come up with a plan consisting of a rough sketch of your ideas, and any important details you think of as well. As the plan progresses, and you do more calculations and design, the plan can be developed into something more detailed and defining of the structure to be built.
In the beginning, you will need to consider the basics of Direct-Gain Solar Design. It is important that the structure be placed such that it gets maximum sun exposure to the collectors (in this case, the windows), The collectors need to be appropriately sized for the space, and there needs to be sufficient thermal mass to store heat, as well.
Of course, heat loss cannot be discounted. Attention needs to be paid to insulation, as well as infiltration and the heat loss through walls, windows, doors, ceilings, floors etc. Here is an excellent article on heat loss in buildings from engineeringtoolbox.com that will be used later on in the “guide.”
For now, though, we will concentrate on site selection and interior layout; two very important steps in designing a solar heated cabin, home, or commercial/industrial building. If the building’s location and orientation are not factored into the construction, the so-called solar heated structure will likely be a disaster. “Measure twice, cut once” and all that..
In the winter, the sun is low in the sky during the evening hours, causing the northern side of a building have little in the way of “solar gain.” Because of this, a solar heated building will benefit from having most of the “heat collectors” on the southern exposure of the building, and the smallest possible size northern exposure. Most decide to elongate the building on the east-west axis, and have a shorter northern wall. Many people now however are experimenting with different shapes and sizes of buildings, so don’t be afraid to be creative (providing the design is sound.)
With a smaller northern side (whether shorter, narrower, whatever) the building will have less exposed surface area on the northern (non sun-gaining) side. This translates into lower heat loss. Combine this with a minimum of doors and windows on the north side, and lots of insulation, and your solar home is starting to be a twinkle in your eye. Don’t get ahead of yourself though, there is a lot more work to be done still even just in the design phase.
Ideally, you are going to want to find a spot for your building that has the minimum number of objects possible obstructing the sun’s rays. And by the minimum, I mean none. There should be no obstructions between 9am and 3pm solar time, in the winter. This is important. I have even changed the planned “exact location” of the cabin a few times just to avoid having to cut down too many/any trees.
You will want to go to the site with a “sun chart” which will help you to determine the position of the sun in the sky at any point in the day. The sun chart will help you to determine if there is going to be anything in the way (accurately, rather than just guessing) of your building’s south side.
On the interior of the building, you will want to pay attention to the orientation as well. Areas that are occupied more often should be on the south side of the building, and areas needing less heat like laundry rooms, closets, storage rooms should be on the northern side. These are often called “buffer spaces” as they help to shield the southern sun-heated living area from heat loss.
After making sure the area is free of obstructions, and laying out the interior of the building, you will want to lay out the building using stakes and string or surveyor’s tape, in its actual location, so that you can get an idea of how the building will look in the surroundings, and verify everything with dimensions.
With respect to entry doors, always give yourself a “mudroom” or “airlock.” By this I mean one exterior door that lets the person entering into a small room where another door needs to be opened to enter the building. This prevents large amounts of heat loss from the interior of the building by having the outermost door closed before opening the innermost door. If this were not implemented, cold air from the outdoors would be exchanged with warm inside air every time the door was opened.
As you may notice, many elements of Solar Heating Design are things that could be, and in many cases are, implemented on other homes as well. Preventing heat loss in the winter time for example, is an excellent way to reduce energy loss. Many people add weatherstripping and insulate doors and windows during the winter in existing homes, as it is, and many homes already have dual entry doors and windows on the south side.
Unfortunately many homes that are built already seem to have been built by someone who had no regard for the power of the sun whatsoever, and very well may be a lost cause if your intention is a mostly solar heated building. The best bet is to start fresh (although that is a hard fact to swallow with the price of building materials.. Try to recycle things if possible.. Tear down an old garage or barn for example, and use the lumber in the construction of your new structure.)
When starting from scratch, you will need to learn about many different aspects of construction, and in most people’s cases, deal with a contractor or several. Foundations need to be laid, frames must be built, and most importantly, codes must be followed. If you are going to be doing this yourself please get a few books on the subject, as well as copies of the building and electrical code, and make sure you study up before going to work.
That is all for now, but make sure to come back for my ramblings on window sizing, insulation, roof design, foundation types, thermal mass, and many other topics. The next step in designing our solar heated structure is deciding how the building will be constructed. By this I mean the foundation type, frame, wall, and roof type all need to be determined. I will go over some of the advantages and disadvantages of many of these construction styles with regards to solar heating, in the next section of this guide.




Excellent post! Some notes about window choices are probably worth the effort. Double (and triple!) pane windows are a *MUST* — don’t even bother with anything less if planning to use them for light/heat/anything at all. Single pane windows are best left to unheated garages and sheds. If you have any attic structure to your building, vents are a necessity (for a lot of documented reasons), but be careful not to bleed too much heat there, because it is a direct loss. Another interesting idea: collectors filled with fluid-pipes that cycle into a thermal mass in the basement. Don’t use the walls, because they’ll bleed half of it into the surrounding soil, but a support column in the center might be a good place. Run the pipes through it with sand/other dense mass that will retain and radiate filling the negative space. A lot of ideas, but maybe useful to someone.
Thanks, Jon
I was planning on going into the window choice stuff along with the window sizing and placement section, but in retrospect I should have at least touched on it here.. I will probably come back and edit this post fairly soon.
Along with that, I was planning on mentioning collectors other than windows in another section as well, and that is why I tried to leave this section “vague” and refer to them as collectors rather than windows.
Always appreciate the comments!
hi, for a long time i have been looking to build some sort of solar heated cabin. being disabled which also translates into broke i use a lot of salvaged materials for my projects. i will be following this article closely and surely wish you well with its progress.
im thinking some sort of post framed hybrid with nothing but glass on south side and hopefully sip end walls and roof panels and either a poured concrete or
block north wall with zero openings there. floor will be dry set pavers and hopefully have some sort of heated water tube underneath it using a wood fired boiler
im in florida but it was 11 degress last night here brrr!
if not the sips due to cost and i have to revert to my salvaged lumber mode and pink owens as i can.
cost is major issue for me i do have a small mobile home here thats pretty tight for a mobile. i plan to just keep it here and build this cabin nearby.
admin is welcome to mail me direct if you are close enough ill come help you build when you need another set of paws
bright blessings . john in obrien fl.
Sounds like a good plan, John.
I hear you on the cost of the SIP’s.. We will either be cutting lumber off the property ourselves or trying to use salvage materials for the cabin we build in the future..
Will you be using thermal mass on the floor, a trombe wall, or something else to hold the heat?
Cost is always a major issue for me, as well, that is why this is “Do It Yourself Solar”
Upstate New York is a bit far from Florida, but you never know, I have friends down there, maybe I will make it down your way to help you out with a project.
Always good to hear from people that check out the site, so feel free to drop by and leave a comment every now and then
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I happened upon this site/blog last night and am really impressed with the available info and plans.
I am a commercial fisherman and spend about 6 months a year working/living on a boat. The other months of the year I usually travel a bit and then either live with friends and/or rent a small cabin. Lately I’ve been thinking of purchasing some land in AK or in the lower-48 in the Rockies, and then building a small cabin or sorts. It’d be great for the few months a year I would live there and as a vacation get-a-way for friends/family.
I was curious if you had some sort of ballpark number for the cost of this structure? Obviously there are lots of factors that could influence the price, (basement, slab, varying qualities of materials, plumbing, etc) but any idea how inexpensive it could be to construct…assuming it was all done on your own?
One idea I had was to extend the back side of the structure adding a single bay garage and extending the roof line out further. Any thoughts? Also, building on a hillside and having a walk-out basement would be ideal!…but certainly would add to the cost : (
Anyway, great site and info/plans. Can’t wait to see more in the future!
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